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April 2011

Hoping You Had A Zissen Pesach!

Charoset

I had meant to have this post finished before the end of Passover, but life intervened.  But here’s hoping that all our Jewish friends and loved ones enjoyed a sweet Passover.   As these special days were approaching, I decided that I would try my hand at a few recipes typically prepared during Passover, and charoset was suggested.  Charoset is a part of the Passover seder plate and symbolizes, in its consistency and color, the mortar used by the Jews to lay bricks during their enslavement in Egypt.   (I know, I know, the version above is not looking particularly mortar-like . . . more on that in a minute.)

I mentioned my upcoming project to a few friends and colleagues.  My colleagues were enthusiastic.  “It’s delicious!” “It tends to be a favorite with the kids!”  But when I shared my plan with Gary, the raisin-hating husband of my best friend, who happens as well to be Jewish, he responded, “Charoset?  Why would you want to make that?”

“It sounds like I might be able to put my own spin on it.  And I’m told it’s delicious!”

“That’s because there’s nothing else to eat at that *&#%$#! meal.”

I shared this response with the charoset suggestor, who responded, “Gary’s been eating at the wrong houses.”

And so, on the first night of Passover, I was in my kitchen chopping and mixing, and eventually serving my daughters a pre-bed snack of charoset on matzo.  And while they were quite complimentary, I was curious as to how my version would fare if tasted by someone who had a seder or two under his belt.  Fortunately, charoset doesn’t really suffer from a couple of days in the fridge, and I was able to save it until my dinner a few nights later with Dr. S.  While sharing that the charosets of his experience were generally more “wet”,  he gave my version a thumbs up. (Yes, I know he’s probably not the most objective taste-tester I could have found, but I do believe he would have told me if I was way off base.)

While researching various recipes, I happened upon the Shiksa in the Kitchen, and learned that the ingredients used in charoset vary in accordance with a family’s tradition.  Ashkenazi Jews tend to use walnuts, apples, and red wine, while pistachios, almonds, and dates are often found in Sephardic versions.  My recipe borrowed a little from both of these traditions.

K’s Charoset

2 large Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and diced

1/3 c. walnuts, finely chopped

1/3 c. almonds, finely chopped

1/3 c. pistachios, finely chopped

1/4 c. golden raisins

4 dried Mission figs, chopped

sprinkling of cinnamon

several grindings of black pepper

crushed seeds from 4 cardamom pods

1/4 c. or so of Kedem (kosher red wine)

lavender honey to taste and bind

Mix all of the above together and serve with matzos.  (Or contribute to next year’s Seder!)

Cooking for One

My daughters are spending the April vacation with their father, and the needs of family and work are taking a big part of Dr. S’s time at the moment.  Thus I have found myself somewhat at loose ends recently when it comes to my evening meals.  One night was cheddar, crackers, and wine, while Skyping with my dad, but last night I spent a few minutes in the kitchen, determined to make dinner for one from my almost-empty fridge.  (With the girls gone, why grocery shop?)  I found a red pepper and a nice bunch of basil.  I channeled that most fabulous former Gourmet writer and novelist Laurie Colwin (don’t tell me you don’t own Home Cooking), and slowly sauteed that red pepper in olive oil and garlic, while I brought water to a boil and julienned the basil.  Into the water went some penne, and when it was almost done I threw a huge handful of basil in with the now quite softened red pepper and garlic.  A big grinding of pepper, little salt to taste, and the sauce was done.  I tossed the cooked pasta into the red pepper pan, poured it into a bowl, added a very generous grating of parmesan, poured a glass of wine, and sat myself down in front of “The Black Swan”.

If poor “White Swan/Black Swan” Nina could only have contented herself in the same fashion, I think things may have turned out quite differently for her.

Toasted Barley and Sweet Potatoes

In addition to avoiding raisins, best friend Kathleen tries to keep her home leaning toward vegetarianism, something encouraged by her husband since he began reading books such as Eating Animals, Fast Food Nation and The Omnivore’s Dilemma.  Bacon, beef, and eggs do still make an occasional appearance, but overall there’s a great deal of healthy eating going on in their Westchester home.  And so I found myself flipping through Jesse Ziff Cool’s Simply Organic, as I sat at Kathleen’s kitchen table some months ago.  It was a chilly November day, and I was looking for some inspiration for the coming week’s dinners.  What I happened upon was Toasted Barley and Sweet Potatoes.

My daughters both LOVE sweet potatoes, and this looked like a pretty good way to include a whole grain.  The author suggested that it could be turned into a more substantial meal by adding an egg, or leftover chicken or shrimp.  We like it with an egg, as the runny yolk contributes an additional layer of taste to the whole event.

Toasted Barley and Sweet Potatoes

1/2 c. pearl barley

2 Tbs. vegetable oil

1 small onion

2 sweet potatoes, cut into 1/4″ pieces

2 c. vegetable broth

salt & pepper to taste

One egg per diner

Toast the barley in a skillet over low heat until just lightly brown.  Set aside.  Saute the onion in oil until softened.  Add the sweet potato and barley and stir to coat with oil and onion.  Add the vegetable broth, salt and pepper, bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cover.  Cook until the sweet potato is just tender (you don’t want it too mushy), somewhere in the 20 – 35 minute vicinity, depending on the size of your sweet potato cubes, and the strength of your flame.  Prepare the eggs (“over easy” is usually the way I go, but poached would be lovely, too).  Enjoy!

Score 1 for Team Raisin

Newsflash:  Saturday, 9:56 p.m., Pelham, New York

Former raisin detractor (see Raisins Ruin a Good Dessert)  and best friend of this reporter, devoured a bowl of Linguine Mendiant – raisins, figs, pistachios, and almonds all!   Eyewitnesses heard her trying to hide behind the old “butter makes everything taste good” defense, but when pressed, she was woman enough to confess the error of her raisin-slandering ways.

Unfortunately, her husband, who was not present for the meal, has yet to be persuaded.  By long distance phone call from Vermont he had this comment, “Raisins have no business in pasta.”

We’ll make a convert of him yet.

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